After the “no poo” trend, a practice which consisted of no longer washing one’s hair with shampoo to benefit from a sebum cure, here is that of “no soap”. As its name suggests, the practice is extremely simple: take a shower… only with water and avoid any cleansing products.
For what ? For reasons of skin health, at least according to those who adopt this method of cleansing.
The “no soap” movement, for a gentler shower for everyone?
The no soap movement is not only carried by originals. It is part of a desire to return to nature and a certain distrust of chemical products. But the argument most mentioned online is to stop these industrial products considered too aggressive for the hydrolipidic film, this thin protective layer which naturally covers our skin.
By completely stopping soaps and shower gels, fans believe they are preserving their skin barrier while reducing their impact on the environment.
But is washing with plenty of water really enough to remove impurities?
Water alone can clean…but only to a certain point
For Dr. Gérald Kierzek, emergency physician, the answer deserves some nuance.
“Water alone is generally not sufficient for complete hygiene, especially if you sweat or are in contact with fatty impurities. he explains.
Lukewarm water nevertheless has some cleaning power. It helps eliminate some of the dust, perspiration and dead cells accumulated on the surface of the skin. Its effectiveness can be enhanced by using a soft glove or a natural sponge.
“For light hygiene and a feeling of freshness, water alone may be enough”specifies the doctor.
In other words, an occasional shower without soap is nothing to worry about. On the other hand, when we seek to effectively eliminate sebum, fatty residues, certain bacteria or larger dirt, a washing agent becomes necessary.
Why soap remains more effective against greasy dirt
The principle is simple: water and fatty substances do not mix easily.
However, a large part of the impurities present on the skin – sebum, pollution, sunscreen or makeup residue – are precisely lipids.
The surfactants contained in soaps and shower gels help loosen these substances and carry them with the water when rinsing.
This is why dermatologists generally do not recommend completely eliminating cleansing products, but rather choosing those that best respect the skin’s balance.
Solid soap or shower gel: which is gentler on the skin?
Not all cleansing products are equal.
THE solid soap traditional is very concentrated and contains little water. Its main advantage is its effectiveness in eliminating dirt as well as its often more limited environmental impact thanks to reduced packaging.
On the other hand, its pH is generally higher than that of the skin. “It can dry out the skin, especially in people with eczema or dermatitis“, underlines Dr Gérald Kierzek.
THE shower gelit contains more water and synthetic surfactants. It is often formulated to be gentler and better tolerated by the skin barrier. Many products also include moisturizing agents, emollients or ceramides which limit dryness.
Other advantages: it is stored in a closed container, which reduces the risk of contamination, even if its ecological balance is generally less favorable due to plastic packaging.
What products should you choose to preserve your skin?
To benefit from the benefits of cleansing without damaging the epidermis, Dr. Gérald Kierzek recommends favoring:
- So-called “soap-free” products, formulated with mild synthetic detergents and a pH close to that of the skin;
- Superfatted shower gels;
- Cleansing oils, which clean while preserving the hydrolipidic film;
- Mild soaps with physiological pH, close to the natural pH of the skin.
Is “no soap” suitable for sensitive skin?
For some people, reducing the use of traditional soaps can actually provide a benefit.
“For sensitive or allergic skin, washing without traditional soap can be advantageous because it contains fewer potentially irritating components. says the doctor again.
On the other hand, people suffering from eczema, atopic dermatitis or dry skin generally benefit from turning to shower gels or cleansing oils specifically formulated for fragile skin.
Should we give up soap?
The no soap phenomenon reminds us of an often forgotten reality: washing more is not necessarily washing better.
However, completely giving up cleansing products is not the ideal solution for everyone.
Water alone helps eliminate some of the impurities, but it quickly reaches its limits in the face of sebum and greasy dirt. The best approach is often to use gentle products suited to your skin type, rather than completely banishing soap from your bathroom.