In the fresh section, many hesitate when faced with two boxes that have the same name, but not the same mention on the label. In France, there are more than 1,200 varieties. And each inhabitant eats on average 26.5 kilos per year.
But the difference between milk types remains unclear for many. Behind this choice, however, lie issues of taste, food safety and even health for certain audiences.
Raw milk or pasteurized milk: how cheeses are made
This is precisely what distinguishes raw milk cheeses from pasteurized milk cheeses.
In his column “The secrets of consumption”, Olivier Dauvers recalls that we find “raw milk Camemberts and pasteurized milk Camemberts, or in Ariège mountain tomes with raw milk and mountain tomes with pasteurized milk and on the other side of the Pyrenees, Ossau-Iraty with raw milk or Ossau-Iraty with pasteurized milk.
The same name, but a different process, therefore a changing taste and risk profile.
Historically, “all cheeses were made with raw milk”, explains Olivier Dauvers, and “man has been making cheese since the Neolithic era”. Pasteurization only appeared in the 19th century with Louis Pasteur. Pasteurizing milk involves heating it to around 72 to 85°C for 15 to 20 seconds, then cooling it quickly. Raw milk is not heated above 40°C.
Pasteurization aims to destroy a large proportion of micro-organisms, including certain pathogens such as Listeria monocytogenes, Salmonella or Escherichia coli. The Ministry of Agriculture describes this treatment as a consumer protection measure, not to mention zero risk.
Taste and safety: what raw milk really changes in cheese
By heating the milk, we also eliminate part of the flora which builds the aromas. Result, “raw milk cheeses have more pronounced tastes”underlines Olivier Dauvers. Roquefort, Comté or Beaufort, all traditionally made from raw milk, owe much of their character to this more “lively” microflora and long maturation. Pasteurized milk cheeses generally offer a more consistent taste from one brand to another.
On the security side, the authorities remain cautious. ANSES and the Ministry of Agriculture point out that germs like
Listeria monocytogenes can survive in raw milk cheeses, especially soft or bloomy rind cheeses.
Poorly refrigerated pasteurized milk can also pose a problem, but the initial risk is lower. Everything then comes down to hygiene and the cold chain.
Raw milk cheese: who it is not recommended for and how to choose wisely
Raw milk cheeses are not recommended for pregnant women, children under five years old and immunocompromised people. Health Insurance recommends that these people avoid soft raw milk cheeses, the rind of cheeses and already grated raw milk cheeses, in connection with the risk of listeriosis. She also advises setting the refrigerator between 3 and 4°C.
The Ministry of Agriculture and ANSES, however, make an exception for cooked pressed cheeses, such as Comté or Beaufort, even when they are made from raw milk. Their cooking and prolonged maturation greatly reduce the risk. At the supermarket, simply read the words “raw milk” or “pasteurized milk” on the label of a Camembert or Emmental cheese, or ask the cheesemaker directly, to adapt your choice to your taste and health situation.