At 20 or 30 years old, very strong coloring can seem stylish. After the age of 40, the same shade can suddenly “harden” the face, accentuate wrinkles or deepen dark circles. The question of hair colors that harden features after 40 then comes up every time you visit the hairdresser.
The skin loses its luminosity, the natural contrast between the eyes, complexion and hair changes, as does the texture of the lengths. Result: certain colors, once flattering, become more severe. Four families of shades require real vigilance.
After 40, why color can stiffen features
When the skin becomes thinner and marks more, too dark or too light coloring creates additional shadows around the eyes, mouth or nasolabial fold. Hair works a bit like a frame for the face: if it is cut too much, each little irregularity stands out more and the face appears harder.
Texture matters too. Hair that is thinning, drying out or losing volume does not tolerate extreme coloring. A very dark uniform shade or extensive discoloration makes the mass visually flatter and less shiny, which reinforces the impression of fatigue. It is therefore better to look at the color and condition of the fiber at the same time.
The 4 hair colors that harden the features the most after 40
Jet black, almost raven black, creates a very strong contrast with the skin. On a complexion that has lost its radiance, it draws the eye towards fine lines and dark circles, and can give a severe rather than chic look. On fine hair, this very dark mass highlights the scalp and gives the illusion of thinning hair. The very smooth uniform brown poses another problem: without reflections or nuances, it “swallows” the light from the face and darkens the complexion, which accentuates the signs of fatigue.
On the blonde side, copper blonde which turns “brassy” (yellow or orange) easily conflicts with natural redness and small spots, especially on sensitive or pink skin. The reflections then appear dry, artificial. Glazed platinum, close to white, has the opposite effect: it “washes out” the complexion, highlights dark areas and requires heavy bleaching which weakens already more porous hair, making it appear finer and therefore less enveloping for the face.
What colors to choose to soften features after 40
Rather than extreme shades, colorists recommend medium nuanced bases: light brown, medium brown or beige blonde, awakened by honey, caramel or golden highlights. A nuanced light brown offers enough depth to structure the face, without the severity of a very dark brown, especially if it is highlighted by a few fine highlights around the face.
Soft techniques are the best allies: balayage, face-framing highlights close to the contour of the face, slightly darker lowlights in the mass to create relief. A single rule guides the choice: look for a color that seems to blend naturally with the complexion, brings warmth and softness to the eyes, while respecting the actual texture of the hair.