“”It is really a surge“, Ensures Matteo Neri, director of studies at Xerfi. Between 2020 and 2024, the turnover of hyperprotein products – carried mainly by yogurts and skyrs – has gone from around 70 to more than 380 million euros.
“”It is quite considerable and the range continues to develop: Justin Bridou sausage, babybel cheese, crossroads … There is a real craze of industrialists and consumers“, Sets Mr. Neri.
Previously reserved for great athletes and specialized brands, hyperproteinated food has been widely democratized.
“”There is a very positive image of proteins that are associated with power, muscles, vitality, and we tell ourselves that it is good for health“, Explains François Mariotti, nutrition professor at Agro-Paris Tech.
However, the promise of protein intake sold by these products is not really of interest, put health professionals put into perspective.
“”In France, there are no protein deficiencies. Almost all of the population is already far above the recommendations set between 0.8 and 1 gram of protein per kilo of body weight“, Details Violette Babocsay, dietician.
“Deceiver” marketing
By betting on a marketing strategy running around sport, nutrition and health, these products attract, in addition to athletes, people concerned about their diet, by playing on the idea that proteins allow you to lose weight.
But watch out for false promises. If proteins help grow muscle mass, they cannot claim “promoting satiety” or “helping to control hunger”, has decided the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA).
“”And even for athletes, there is a maximum beyond which it is not useful to go, it is not +more I eat, the better it is +“, Specifies Ms. Babocsay.
The dietician also criticizes “almost misleading” marketing of certain versions enriched with protein – whose composition is often close to their classic version.
To make their products more protein, industrialists can either add a protein source or simply reduce the rate of fat, which mechanically increases the proportion of proteins.
“”For the protein version of babybel cheese, there is no addition of protein, but less fat“, illustrates for example the professional.”We must really be interested in nutritional values to realize that the protein difference between the two versions is ultimately very limited“.
“”The composition of the protein version is also almost identical to the light version, with black packaging on one side, and blue on the other“, she quips.
More expensive products
Also, contrary to popular belief, the “protein” mention does not mean that the product is necessarily healthier. On the contrary, their composition is sometimes even less good and many contain more sugar, additives or sweeteners …
Prof. Mariotti deplores “the dedication of nutritional messages“, Used to promote” bad for health “products.
Especially since these products are also more expensive: “For classic soy milk, we are going to be on 1.85 euros and 4 grams of protein per 100 ml, against almost 3 euros and only 5 grams of protein in a protein version“warns Violette Babocsay.
The observation is even more striking on the side of yogurts, where products already rich in protein like the small-Swiss cost 3.5 euros per kilo, against 8 euros for a specialized brand.
Thus, foods that highlight their protein appearance can be much less than others that are naturally -like the turkey net -without their packaging making it.
“”Many products, even simple natural crumb breads, can be declared + source of protein + depending on the regulations. It is only a marketing choice that has little value in reality“, Illustrates Elsa Abdoun, journalist at Que Choisir magazine.
Claiming properties for health based on protein contents is “completely unsuitable”, deplores Pr Mariotti.
“”It puts a lot of cacophony, and it is starting to become a real problem“He points out.