Butter with 60% fat: Dr Jean-Michel Cohen’s warning for choosing your product wisely

Butter with 60% fat: Dr Jean-Michel Cohen's warning for choosing your product wisely
A 60% light butter is not a classic butter: it provides less fat and often more water. But the idea that it necessarily contains inflammatory emulsifiers deserves to be qualified.

On Instagram, Dr Jean-Michel Cohen warns about 60% light butter. The correct answer: these products contain less fat than classic butter, often more water, but not necessarily emulsifiers.

What “60% butter” really means

The nutritionist reminds us of an important point: classic butter does not have the same composition as butter labeled at 60% fat. Under European regulations, standard butter must contain at least 82% milk fat. A 60% product belongs to the category of butters with reduced fat content, also called “three-quarter butter”, with 60 to 62% milk fat.

In other words, “60%” does not mean that the product is 60% lighter. It means that it contains 60% fatthe rest being made up of other components, in particular a greater proportion of water than in conventional butter.

This drop in fat reduces the caloric value. This is correct in principle. For the reference Montfleuri demi-sel 60% consulted, the product sheet indicates 547 kcal per 100 gor approximately 55 kcal per 10 g. For comparison, classic butter is around 75 kcal per 10 g. The gap therefore exists, even if the figures given in the video are approximate.

To better situate these products among everyday fats, you can also consult our article on the differences between butter and margarine.

Emulsifiers: What the Label Really Says

Dr. Cohen points the finger at emulsifiers. He explains that, according to him, the fat removed would be compensated by the addition of a liquid and that the product would then be emulsified. This is a possible mechanism in certain low-fat products, but
it’s not automatic.

To know what a low-fat butter actually contains, you have to look at the list of ingredients for the exact reference. In the case of Montfleuri demi-sel 60% currently consulted on the Intermarché sheet, the ingredients listed are: butter, water, 1.8% salt and lactic ferments. No emulsifier is indicatedand the buttermilk mentioned in the video does not appear on this sheet either.

This does not mean that no low-fat butter ever contains additives. Some references may contain them, depending on their recipe, their brand or their country of marketing. The useful rule is therefore simple: do not rely solely on the “light” claim, but on the label of the product purchased.

  • Locate the percentage of fat: 60%, 62%, or classic butter at 82% minimum;
  • Read the list of ingredients, particularly the possible presence of additives or emulsifiers;
  • Compare calories for a realistic portion, for example 10g, rather than just 100g;
  • Check the salt content if the product is semi-salted or salted.

There remains the question of “inflammatory emulsifiers” mentioned by Dr. Cohen. Recent work, notably relayed by Inserm, suggests that certain emulsifiers could be associated with effects on the microbiota and certain health risks. But this does not demonstrate that all emulsifiers cause chronic inflammation in humans, nor that low-fat butter alone would be responsible.

If you wish to delve deeper into this subject, our file on ultra-processed foods and their effects on health returns to the role of additives in food. For a thoughtful purchase, however, the most reliable reflex remains to choose based on the composition displayed, and not just from the “60%” mention.