With autumn, our lips feel tight, burn, crack. The reflex? Take out the moisturizing stick. But can you really become “addicted” to these miraculous little hits? A dermatologist sets things straight.
Can you really be “addicted” to your lip balm?
When temperatures drop, our lips become the first victims of cold, wind and heating. In pockets, on desks or in handbags, lip balm becomes essential. But for some time now, a doubt has loomed: wouldn’t these balms do more harm than good? On TikTok and in everyday conversations, the rumor persists: the more you use, the drier your lips become.
For Dr Susan Massick, dermatologist interviewed by the magazine Selfthis idea deserves to be qualified. No, manufacturers are not trying to make us addicted to our hydrating tubes. “Using lip balm is not a true addiction or chemical dependency“, says the specialist. And adds: “It’s also a myth that using it often will prevent your lips from retaining moisture on their own.”.
In other words, your balm is not a marketing trap. But it can, depending on its composition, become a false friend for your weakened lips.
When skincare becomes irritating: ingredients to watch out for
Not all balms are equal. Some treat, others maintain the dryness they claim to relieve. “BMany products contain ingredients that seem hydrating at first, but are actually irritating in the long run“, explains Dr. Massick.
The main suspects? Fragrances, essential oils and flavorings added to make the experience more pleasant. “These ingredients are not inherently drying, but they are common triggers for people with sensitive skin or prone to allergic reactions“, specifies the dermatologist. Result: red, irritated, sometimes swollen lips… and a vicious circle sets in – we reapply to soothe, but it gets worse.
Same problem with certain “freshness” ingredients like camphor, eucalyptus or menthol. While they give an immediate impression of comfort, they end up drying the skin. Other formulas, although without irritants, simply lack effectiveness. “Many balms contain humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, which are excellent for attracting water into the skin. However, the problem is that you need something to retain this moisture, otherwise it will evaporate and leave your lips even drier“, recalls the specialist.
The right gesture and the right balm for repaired lips
The reflex of licking your lips to moisten them should also be avoided. Not only does saliva not hydrate them, but it makes chapping worse. “Digestive enzymes in your saliva can cause irritation, and when your lips are constantly wet and then dry, it damages their protective barrier“, explains the dermatologist.
To really protect your lips, the specialist recommends favoring ointments rather than perfumed balms or glosses. The most effective contain occlusives like petroleum jelly or dimethicone. These thick textures create a protective barrier that locks in moisture and limits water loss.
But be careful: even “ideal” formulas can contain potential allergens. If your lips burn, tingle or swell after application, it is best to change the product. Another guideline: a good balm should not require constant reapplication. “If you have to reapply every hour, your product is not suited to your needs.“, summarizes the dermatologist. Two applications per day – in the morning and before bed – are more than enough.
And last tip that is often overlooked: sun protection. “The sun’s rays can absolutely make flaking and chapping worse, the last thing you need during the already drier and colder months“, concludes Dr. Massick.