It’s hard to miss: on TikTok, YouTube and Instagram, glycolic acid is establishing itself as the new darling of beauty routines. Promised as the miracle solution against stains, it is touted in thousands of videos, notably thanks to the cult product of The Ordinaryan exfoliating lotion with 7% glycolic acid that has gone viral. It is then used on the face, but also on the body, elbows, knees or armpits, all these sometimes darker areas, as a way to even out the complexion and “get new skin”. But what is it really?
An acid like no other
Behind this somewhat technical name hides a fruit acid, from the AHA family (alpha-hydroxy acids). Its mission: to chemically exfoliate the skin to eliminate dead cells and restart cell renewal. Unlike mechanical scrubs, it does not need grains: it acts gently, but deeply.
It is also one of the most used ingredients in dermatological peels, these treatments which smooth the skin, revive the radiance of the complexion and reduce certain imperfections. So yes, glycolic acid does have a visible effect on the skin. But maybe not as much as you think.
Can it really depigment the skin?
According to Dr Fatya Assadi, consulted by True Medical, everything depends on the type of hyperpigmentation and the concentration used.
“The 7% product remains weakly concentrated. It can work on mild or recent hyperpigmentation, but not on more severe cases such as melasmas” specifies the specialist.
Clearly, glycolic acid can lighten the complexion and reduce superficial spots, but it is not a real depigmenting active ingredient. “To obtain a visible result, it must be used over several months – three to four months minimum – and on areas that are not very marked,” adds Dr Assadi.
For more severe cases, head to the medical office
If the stains are old or deep, a simple 7% treatment, on the other hand, will not be enough.
“In these cases, we can combine glycolic acid with other active ingredients, or resort to a medical peel, more concentrated and carried out under dermatological control“, recommends the aesthetic doctor.
Professional peels allow you to reach the deeper layers of the skin, where the melanin responsible for the spots resides. But it is done with a professional.
A good product but not a miracle
Although it is popular, glycolic acid therefore requires caution and regularity. Incorrectly dosed or used incorrectly, it can cause irritation, redness or sun sensitization.
The right reflex if you opt for the Typology version
- Always perform a skin test before use;
- Do not combine several acids or exfoliants;
- And apply daily sun protection, essential to avoid the opposite effect: new pigment spots.
In the end, yes glycolic acid can help to lighten the skin and fade light spots… but on condition that it is used over time, with an appropriate concentration.