The world of beauty is constantly evolving, always offering more tools to improve the brilliance of the skin and slow down signs of age. Among them, needle pens, inspired by professional microneedling, attract more and more users. Promising quick results and simple use at home, these devices that pierce the skin, however, arouse an essential question: are they really without danger?
How do needle pens work?
How do needle pens work? The models on the market use micro-Aiguilles which very slightly puncture the skin. These micro-perforations trigger a natural healing process and stimulate collagen production, giving the skin a firmer and brighter appearance. They would also make it possible to better penetrate the assets. The intensity of the treatment depends on the chosen setting: needle depth, targeted areas, skin type …
But the appearance of house models also induces new advantages:
- Economy : a microneedling session in the clinic costs between 100 and 300 €, while a quality pen is between 50 and 200 €;
- Accessibility : No need to move, the treatment can be carried out at home in less than 30 minutes;
- Personalization : Each user can adapt the depth of the needles according to their objective.
Internet users thus indicate that they have found the key to act on wrinkles, acne scars or dilated pores. Right?
Watch out for depths, indicates our dermatologist
In aesthetic dermatology, microneedling is an already well established practice. Dermatologist Isabelle Gallay who knows the subject well, explains:
“Generally, it is an electrical pen with a disposable sterile tip that is changed with each patient, at each treatment. It allows to make micro-perforations on the skin, invisible when you know how to use it, and to obtain a remodeling effect of the dermis if the depth is sufficient.“”
However, it specifies that in office, the settings are adapted to each situation. A weak depth (less than 0.5 mm) only crosses the corneal layer and facilitates the penetration of sterile serums, while providing a slight massage. More in depth, treatment becomes medical, with more marked restorative effects.
The “Home Devices”: limits to be respected
At home, the risk is to want to go too far. Isabelle Gallay insists:
“If you can buy these pens to do it yourself, the treatment depth should not be too large. It must remain less than 0.5 mm.”
It also recommends using tips with a lot of micro-Aiguilles (ideally 36), because “The less the gesture is traumatic for the skin “.
Finally, the choice of applied products is crucial, and should not be taken lightly:
“It is absolutely necessary to use sterile serums. You can’t put anything on the skin, especially if you cross the skin barrier”
And contrary to what certain followers say on the Internet, no, we cannot use it on all skins. “”In case of inflammatory acne or small pustules, we must avoid, because we risk propagating infection ” retorts the professional.
Verdict: an innovation to handle with care
Needle pens offer a practical and economical alternative to professional microneedling. Used properly, with shallow needles and sterile products, they can improve the texture of the skin and give a shine stroke.
But risks exist: poor disinfection, excessive depth, unsuitable products or skin weakened by acne. These errors can transform a beauty treatment into a dermatological complication. In summary, these devices can be effective, but they require prudence, strict hygiene and knowledge of the limits. As Isabelle Gallay reminds us, it is above all “A tool that must be used with rigor, not a gadget to be taken lightly “.