It’s not to make it a cheese, but do you know exactly what you’re swallowing when you buy a Camembert or even a bag of melted grated cheese? In its last issue 60 million consumers reveals a hidden reality: manufacturers do not mention everything on the label, and certain ingredients are doubtful. To paraphrase a famous ad: it’s not like Port-salut… so not marked on it!
A deceptive ray behind abundance: more industrial than traditional
In supermarkets, the impression of diversity masks the weight of the giants of the sector (Lactalis, Bel, Savencia, Sodiaal) which produce the majority of cheeses sold, including many AOPs. Because behind their traditional image, many products are in reality manufactured industrially. Pasteurized milk has become the norm: more profitable, easier to standardize, it is gradually replacing raw milk, leading to a loss of microbial and aromatic diversity.
The big blur of coagulants
The investigation shows to what extent opacity reigns over a central element of manufacturing: the coagulant. Essential but considered a “technological aid”, it escapes the labeling obligation. Result: impossible for the consumer to know whether their cheese was produced with traditional animal rennet or with microbial coagulants.
Even more confusing, some manufacturers use coagulants resulting from genetic engineering, GMO chymosin authorized in France without AOP/IGP. And hold on, nothing indicates this on the packaging, and the manufacturers have no obligation to specify it, even invoking manufacturing secrets.
Additives and antifungals: the crust says more than the label
The investigation also reveals the use of colorings such as annatto or carmine, intended to standardize the appearance of certain cheeses. But the most disturbing discovery concerns natamycin, an antifungal applied to industrial raclette cheeses to prolong their shelf life. Authorized, it is not intended for consumption, although nothing really guides the consumer on this point.
Processed cheeses: the shadow of phosphates
Processed cheeses are not left out. These allow the addition of numerous ingredients, including “cast iron salts”. However, these additives contain phosphates which, in high doses, can disrupt mineral absorption and pose risks for young people.
The European Food Safety Authority warns of a possible exceeding of the acceptable daily intake in children, without any packaging mentioning this.
Industrial grated products and discreet starch
As for the grated cheese in a bag, it adds an unexpected ingredient: potato starch, used to prevent the strands from clumping. Above all, it compensates for the excessive humidity of poorly matured cheeses, which are more economical to produce. An addition that is also found in national brand products, a sign that the industrial compromise goes far beyond the first prices.
A sector that must still play the transparency card
Ultimately, this survey outlines an industry that has invested a lot in the marketing of tradition, but less in the clarity of information. Systematic pasteurization, the possible use of GMO enzymes, antifungal additives or cast iron salts show that the consumer does not have a complete vision of what he is buying.
If AOP raw milk cheeses still embody a form of authenticity, they remain a minority in a landscape largely dominated by industrial production, and by a label that does not say everything.
How to choose your cheese in supermarkets?
Despite sometimes unclear labels, we can identify more reliable products.
- AOP cheeses remain the most controlled;
- Those looking for more assertive tastes can turn to raw milk, while keeping in mind that this type of cheese is not recommended for vulnerable people, particularly pregnant women and young children;
- For non-PDO cheeses, a few guidelines allow you to sort: a short composition without superfluous additives is often a sign of quality;
- Overall, choosing a whole cheese rather than a melted or grated product ensures simpler and more traditional production.
The entire survey can be found in the latest issue of 60 million consumers.