On the face, it all starts with a thin line at the corner of the eye which disappears immediately. One day, the same fold remains, even when the face is at rest.
Between wrinkles and fine lines, the nuance changes the skin diagnosis and the treatments to be favored. Distinguishing them helps to know what can still be attenuated and what has already taken hold.
Wrinkles or fine lines: how to recognize them
Fine lines are often the first sign of age. “A fine line is a fine, shallow line, linked to a progressive thinning of the epidermis and superficial dermis. It is reversible initially“, specifies Stéphanie Soulé, Doctor in Life and Health Sciences and head of scientific communication at Typology, interviewed by Elle.
The wrinkle remains visible even when the face is perfectly relaxed. “An established wrinkle is a marked and lasting fold, linked to a major degradation of collagen and elastin fibers, as well as a loss of density of connective tissue.she explains. The skin loses its internal spring and the furrow no longer unravels after each smile or frown.
Why a fine line can become a wrinkle
Fine lines are a precursor stage: a study published in the British Journal of Dermatology showed that they gradually evolve into established wrinkles. With age, the skin becomes thinner, less elastic and marks more easily. “UV rays are responsible for more than 80% of visible signs of skin aging“, recalls Stéphanie Soulé.
The folds also deepen under the effect of everyday gestures. Tobacco reduces oxygenation of the skin and, “to this is added a direct mechanical factor: the repeated contractions of the perioral muscles during each inhalation accelerate the formation of expression lines“. In winter, cold and dry air weaken the hydrolipidic film, favor fine lines from dehydration and free radicals linked to inflammation.
Wrinkles and fine lines: which treatments to choose
For fine lines, priority is given to hydration and strengthening of the skin barrier. A serum with hyaluronic acid plumps the surface, antioxidant treatments complete the action. “Cleanse the skin thoroughly every evening to remove pollution residue, and reinforce your daily skincare routine with topical antioxidants.” advises Stéphanie Soulé.
For more pronounced wrinkles, active ingredients such as peptides limit muscle contraction of expression lines and improve the relief, without completely disappearing the furrow. The key element remains sun protection: “Sun filters are the most effective preventive measure against skin aging“. “Apply broad-spectrum sun protection (UVA/UVB) with at least SPF 30 every morning, even on cloudy days or indoors, to the face and back of the hands (on all exposed areas of the body), and at the recommended amount (2 mg per cm2 of skin). In case of prolonged exposure, reapply every two hours. Complete the application of sun care with wearing a wide-brimmed hat and long clothing, sums up Stéphanie Soulé.