On Instagram, Dr Marie Jourdan, dermatologist in Paris (@dr_marie_jourdan) deciphers a common phenomenon in rosacea: very red skin can sometimes appear less red thanks to a green tinted cream. The answer is mainly optical: green camouflages the appearance of red, but does not on its own treat the reaction of the blood vessels.
Rosacea redness: what the skin shows
When a flush occurs, the skin does not simply “make” a red color on the surface. In vascular rosacea, this sudden redness corresponds to a vascular reaction : the small vessels in the skin dilate, which increases the blood flow visible under the skin. The face can then suddenly redden, particularly on the cheeks.
This is one of the points explained by the dermatologist: the more the small capillaries dilate, the redder the skin appears. This explanation helps to understand why a cosmetic cream can change what the eye perceives, without necessarily acting on the cause of the redness. To go further on the possible mechanisms, you can also understand facial redness.
The nuance is important: visible redness does not always have the same originand observation of the skin is not enough to make a diagnosis. In the event of repeated, annoying, persistent redness or associated with other signs, the good reflex remains to speak to a healthcare professional, without changing current treatment alone.
Green does not cure red: it neutralizes it visually
The other specific contribution of the video concerns the color wheel. Green is the complementary color of red: applied sparingly, it can reduce the appearance of red by optical effect. In other words, the eye receives different light information, which gives the impression of less intense redness.
This is the principle of certain concealers, BB creams or CC creams tinted with green. Their interest is practical: to make redness less visible on a daily basis, without necessarily covering the skin heavily. But their limit is just as clear:
This is a cosmetic camouflage, not a treatment for rosacea.
To avoid confusion, we can distinguish three situations:
- Camouflage : a green cream or corrector modifies the appearance of the redness thanks to the color;
- Reduce temporarily : certain medications can temporarily reduce the facial erythema of rosacea, but only in a medical setting;
- Managing rosacea : this chronic disease can be controlled or alleviated, without the promise of permanent disappearance.
Dr Marie Jourdan particularly mentions Mirvaso, the active substance of which is brimonidine. This is not a simple drugstore cream: it is a prescription medication, indicated in adults to temporarily reduce the facial redness of rosacea. Health Insurance indicates an effect for approximately 8 to 10 hours. In some people, redness or flushing may also worsen or reappear more strongly after application, which justifies medically supervised use.
The expert also mentions aggravating factors such as strong emotions, spices, alcohol, sport or coffee. Here again, the wording deserves to be qualified: triggers vary between people. Dermatological sources include alcohol, spicy foods, very hot drinks, intense exercise, heat, cold, wind, sun or temperature variations. For coffee or tea, it is mainly the very hot temperature of the drink that can play a role, more than the drink itself.
Finally, the vascular laser can, in certain cases, reduce redness and small visible vessels in a more lasting way than a corrector. But the number of sessions, the indication and the results depend on the situation of each skin and must be evaluated by a dermatologist. For a broader overview, see rosacea symptoms and treatments.