In France, cheese is almost part of the heritage: almost 26 kg per inhabitant per year, according to the Ministry of Agriculture. Faced with this very ingrained pleasure, many are concerned about saturated fats, accused of increasing “bad” LDL cholesterol and the risk of cardiovascular diseases.
A new study published in the International Dairy Journal looked at a specific case: whole cheddar from grass-fed cows, compared to a classic cheddar from cows raised in barns. The results shake up preconceived ideas a little, without changing everything either. One detail, above all, is striking.
Cheese, saturated fats and the heart: why mistrust persists
In most recommendations, cheese is of concern because of its saturated fats. The American Heart Association advises limiting these fats to 5 to 6% of daily calories, or about 13 g per day for an intake of 2,000 kcal. However, not all of them are equal: long-chain fatty acids seem more unfavorable than short- or medium-chain fatty acids, which have rather neutral effects on health.
Salt further complicates the situation. A 28 g serving of cheddar provides around 180 mg of sodium, while the recommended total intake is between 1,500 and 2,300 mg per day for adults. Experts also point out that a portion of cheese corresponds to approximately 30 g; in real life, we quickly exceed this quantity. In the Irish study, each participant ate 120g of cheddar per day, the equivalent of four servings.
What the Grass-Fed Cheddar Trial Really Shows
The Irish researchers recruited 58 adults, aged over 50, all overweight (BMI at least equal to 25 kg/m²), living in Dublin and without serious chronic illness. For six weeks, one group consumed 120 g per day of whole cheddar made with milk from cows fed on grass outdoors, the other the same cheddar from cows fed a total mixed ration, a food given indoors.
At the end of the trial, total cholesterol and LDL cholesterol had decreased in both groups, to fairly similar levels. Participants who ate the grass-fed cheese also had lower levels of circulating saturated fatty acids. The authors emphasize, however, that these differences between groups become less marked after statistical correction. The sample remains modest, the duration short, the dose of cheese very high and there is no group without cheese, which limits the general conclusions.
Which cheese for your daily heart?
In real life, this study mainly suggests that a pastured cheese has a slightly more favorable fatty acid profile, with more short and medium chain fatty acids. Studies also report that cheeses from grass-fed cows provide more vitamin K2, involved in protecting the arteries. But such cheese remains high in calories, saturated fat and salt: it does not become an unlimited “health” food.
Other research, involving nearly 200,000 people followed for around ten years, associates a consumption of around 40 g of cheese per day with a reduction of close to 18% in the risk of cardiovascular disease, without proving a cause and effect link. For a healthy person, staying around 30 to 40 g of cheese per day, integrated into a varied diet and regular physical activity, appears to be a reasonable order of magnitude. In case of high cholesterol or heart disease, dietitians recommend 2 to 3 portions of 30 to 40 g per week, favoring less salty cheeses such as fresh mozzarella, Swiss, ricotta or certain French pastured cheeses, and using the saltiest in small touches for flavor.